Bustles

Add a bustle

A bustle lifts the train off the floor after the ceremony, so you can dance without anyone stepping on it. Most dresses don't come with one. The shop usually adds it at the last fitting, but you can do it yourself.

The three kinds

• American (over) bustle: hooks or buttons lift the train up onto the back of the skirt. It's the simplest, and good for lighter skirts.
• French (under) bustle: numbered ribbons tie together underneath, and the train tucks under itself. It's the classic look, and it handles heavy satin well.
• Ballroom bustle: many points tucked under all the way around, so the dress looks like a floor-length gown. Best for big ball gowns, and the most work.

A short train often needs only one point. Three is common, and long or heavy trains can need many more.

Do it last, in your shoes

Set the bustle after the hem is done, standing in the shoes you'll wear, with someone else doing the pinning. Try it with safety pins first and walk around in it. Only sew once it hangs evenly. Then color-code the ribbons, and show your bridesmaid how it goes before the day, not at the reception.

How other brides did it

• How to hem and bustle a wedding gown (Diana Marie, DIMA Dress Loft): a seamstress tries a 3-point over bustle and a 10-point bustle on a client's gown before settling on a 3-point under bustle. Good proof that it's fine to test.
• French (under) bustle on a ball gown (video, re:Finery).
• How to do a ballroom bustle (video, Anderson Bridal Alterations Academy).
• A single-point American bustle (video, Rachel's Custom Sewing).
• Sewing bustle loops (video, Sew Show with Shae): the small thread loops that hold it all up.
• How to install a French bustle (Instructables): a simple 1 to 3 point version in eight steps.

Want someone to do it?

Any bridal alterations shop will add a bustle, usually at the final fitting. If you're having the dress hemmed anyway, ask for both at once.

What you'll need

• Thin satin ribbon in a few colors: one color per pair of ties, so nobody has to guess on the day.
• A bustle kit, or heavy-duty hooks and eyes for an over bustle.
• Safety pins: for the trial run.
• Fine hand-sewing needles and thread that matches the dress.

Take a photo of the bustle done up and send it to whoever will do it at the reception. It's easy to forget which ribbon goes where after a long day.

More ways to make the dress yours: adding sleeves or straps, adding lace, beading or pearls, or start from all the projects.